Italian Easter Pie or Torta di Spinaci

The well-worn recipe from 1972

We learned about Easter Pie years ago, when visiting the family of an Italian-American graduate school friend, John Agresto (who recently published a cookbook full of great recipes and reminiscences of growing up in Brooklyn, Tomatoes, Basil and Olive Oil: An Italian-American Cookbook). In addition to an Easter dinner of monumental proportions, their holiday was marked by a tasty spinach/cheese/meat pie that simply sat around in the kitchen for snacking in the unlikely event that someone was hungry. Carolyn and I spotted a recipe a few years later (1972!) in the Sunday NY Times for “An Elegant Easter Pie,” a recipe by Jean Hewitt under the title “Anita Sheldon’s Torta Di Spinaci.” It wasn’t quite the same as the Easter pie we remembered at the Agrestos, but it was mighty good and it became a family tradition at Eastertime until we lost the recipe some years back. It was, thankfully, recovered recently at the bottom of a file cabinet and it’s been reinstated in our holiday repertoire. We served it most recently at our annual Easter Brunch. While it has holiday credentials, it also makes for great picnic fare, or an easy luncheon dish. We just noticed that the recipe has also been published in Amanda Hesser’s wonderful new The Essential New York Times Cookbook.

Here’s the recipe, with thanks to the New York Times, Jean Hewitt, Amanda Hesser, and Anita Sheldon.

ANITA SHELDON’S TORTA Dl SPINACI
Serves 8 to 10 [or more -- it's a generous size]

For the Pastry
3 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces [put in all this butter; the pastry is rich, but delicious!]
1 large egg yolk
Approximately 3 tablespoons water

For the Filling
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 large onions, finely chopped
1 3/4 pounds fresh spinach, trimmed and washed well, or two 10-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach
Three 1-inch-thick smoked pork chops or pork loin (about 1 pound), any fat and bones removed and meat diced, or 1/2 pound bacon, diced
1 1/2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 5 ounces)
1 cup (8 ounces) ricotta cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 large egg white, lightly beaten

1. To make the pastry, place the flour, salt, and butter in a bowl. With a pastry blender, 2 knives, or your fingertips, work the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse oatmeal.

2. Mix the egg yolk with 3 tablespoons water and sprinkle over the mixture. Stir with a fork, adding only enough extra water to make a dough that just clings together. Divide the dough in half and form into 2 disks. Wrap each one in wax paper and chill briefly.

3. Meanwhile, prepare the filling: Heat the oil in a large skillet and sauté the onions until tender but not browned. Set aside.

4. If using fresh spinach, place the washed spinach leaves, with just the water that clings, in a large saucepan, cover tightly, and cook until the leaves wilt. Drain well and let cool enough to touch. In batches, gather the leaves in your palm and press out all the liquid by squeezing as firmly as possible. Chop the spinach. Or, if using frozen spinach, cook according to the package directions; drain well, cool, and squeeze dry. [Note: the squeezing part is really important -- get all the water our or you'll have a soggy crust!]

5. Combine the chopped spinach and onions in a bowl and let cool completely, then add the diced smoked pork, Parmesan cheese, ricotta, salt and pepper to taste, and lightly beaten eggs.

6. Heat the oven to 425°F. Roll out half the pastry on a lightly floured work surface into 12-inch circle and line a 10-inch pie plate with it. Brush the bottom and sides of the shell with the lightly beaten egg white. Pour in the filling.

7. Roll out the remaining pastry and cover the filling. Trim, seal, and crimp the edges. Make a steam hole and if you’re up for it place leaves, cut from the pastry scraps, around the hole (not over it). [We put leaves around the edges for an elegant spring look.]

8. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the pastry is golden and done. Let stand for 10 to 15 minutes before cutting.

Cooking Notes
The torta can be baked early in the day and reheated in a 375°F oven. Cover loosely with foil to prevent overbrowning. [It is also just fine at room temperature or slightly warmed]

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Damariscotta oysters ready to be shucked and plated

A sure sign of spring: oystering has begun on the Maine coast and our favorite spot for quaffing them (along with a pint of Pemaquid Ale ) is King Eider’s Pub, on the main drag in Damariscotta.  This delightful village is about a 40-minute drive north of Coveside on highway one. It sits at the top of the lovely Pemaquid peninsula, home to lighthouses, a favorite summer restaurant — Shaws Fish and Lobster Wharf in the village of New Harbor, and great scenery. We think these oysters from Darariscotta River, raised in the chilly waters of Maine, are about the finest oysters we’ve ever tasted. But ice in the river prevents their harvesting during the winter months.  All the more reason to take advantage of these treats when they are available!

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We invited friends and neighbors to an Easter brunch at Coveside, so Carolyn could try out new recipes and get back into baking after our lengthy sojourn in Europe. The event was a great success and the food — especially the baked goods — was wonderful. Many new ideas for breakfasts next summer! Recipes for the baked goods came mostly from Thomas Keller’s beautiful new cookbook, Bouchon Bakery (Artisan Books), and from the new cookbook from our favorite Portland bakery: Alison Pray and Tara Smith, Standard Baking Company Pastries (Down East Press).

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After our four-week French course in Villefranche-Sur-Mer was over, we spent four days in Rome, visiting old friends who were in Rome for the month of March. On the first day they booked a fabulous Rome food tour with Elizabeth Minchilli, an acclaimed cookbook writer and blogger. She is an American who has lived in Rome for many years. Her blog, Elizabeth Minchilli in Rome, is one of our two most favorite food blogs (the other is David Libovitz’ “Living the Sweet Life in Paris.”)

We spent an hour or so in the Campo de’ Fiore, one of Rome’s best known vegetable markets. Artichoke season had just begun and the bounty of artichokes was amazing. To say nothing of the other vegetables, the flowers, spices, etc. And then we visited food shops in the neighborhood. A feast for the senses!  If you are in Rome, we highly recommend Elizabeth’s food tour, which includes visits to pastry, cheese, wine, bread, and sausage shops — with tasting — and a lovely lunch at a traditional Roman restaurant. Some pictures of the bounty:

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What Do You Do With 12 Baguettes?

Homework From Baking Class

Tom & Carolyn spent the weekend in Norwich, Vermont, at the King Arthur bake center and school. Tom took a class called “Baguettes Six Ways” taught by Jeffrey Hammelman, chief baker at King Arthur. Carolyn took a class on “Artisan Breakfast Breads” taught by Ciril Hitz, author of several books on breads and pastries. Who knows how this will change breakfasts next summer! Some pictures of the classes:

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The taste of Autumn: pumpkin muffins with apple butter and a glass of fresh cider.

Carolyn tried a new fall muffin recipe this morning and it was a hit.  Here’s the reccipe:

Pumpkin Muffins

Grease 12 muffin tins. Preheat oven to 375.

Mix together following dry ingredients in a large bowl:
1 1/2 cups chopped dates or dried cranberries
1 cup toasted pecans, chopped in large pieces
2 1/4 cups all purpose flour
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 1/2 tbsp pumpkin pie spice
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp soda
1/2 tsp salt

In separate bowl, whisk together the following wet ingredients:
2 eggs
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup canola oil
1/2 cup unsweetened pumpkin
1/2 cup plain low-fat yogurt

Gently blend wet ingredients into dry ingredients. Do not overmix! It’s okay if a bit of flour   remains unmixed. Fill muffin tins. Sprinkle tops with a mixture of cinnamon and sugar.  Bake for 25-30 minutes, until lightly browned and toothpick pushed into center of muffin comes out clean. Let rest in pan 5 minutes before removing to rack.

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Teddy’s Apple Cake
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground cinamon
1 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 cups peanut, vegetable, or corn oil
2 cups sugar
3 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 cups peeled, cored, and thickly sliced apples
1 cup chopped walnuts
1 cup raisins

1. Heat oven to 350. Butter and flour a 9-inch tube pan. Sift together the flour, salt, cinnamon, and soda.
2. Beat the oil and sugar together in a mixer for 5 minutes. Add eggs and beat until creamy. Sir in dry ingredients. Add remaining ingredients and stir until combined.
Turn batter into prepared pan. Bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, until toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.  Cool in the pan before turning out.

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Carolyn makes 2 or 3 batches at a time (despite what it says on the pectin package!)

Filling the jars — careful, it’s HOT!

finished product!

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Grease a 9×13 pyrex baking pan.  Heat oven to 375.

Blueberry mixture
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup orange juice
1 tbsp cornstarch
4 cups small Maine blueberries (frozen is fine — Wyman’s are great)

Blend together the sugar and cornstarch. Pour orange juice into a saucepan large enough to hold  the juice and the berries.  Add the sugar/cornstarch mixture and whisk over medium heat until the mixture has thickened. Add berries and bring to a boil. Cool.  (This mixture may be prepared the day before making the cake.)

Cake mixture
2 cups all purpose flour
1 cup sugar
1 tbsp plus 1 tsp baking powder
2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp salt

Mix these ingredients together in a large bowl

1 cup whole milk
1 tbsp vanilla
2 large eggs
8 oz (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted
Whisk the above wet ingredients together in a medium bowl.

Gently stir the liquid mixture into the dry ingredients just until mixed. Spread this batter into the greased pan.  Spoon the blueberry mixture evenly over the batter. Bake 25-30 minutes, until lightly browned and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.  Cool at least 5 minutes before serving, but it is best while still warm from the over.  Serve with whipped cream (or, if for dessert, vanilla ice cream).  Yield: 12-15 portions; recipe may be halved for a 9×9 baking pan.

Spooning blueberry mixture over batter

Ready for the oven

Just waiting for the whipped cream

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Herbed egg puffs. Photo by Lynn Karlin

This is a new dish in Carolyn’s breakfast repetoire, adapted from a recipe we obtained from Harriet and Jim Gott,  innkeepers at our favorite bed & breakfast in Kennebunkport, Bufflehead Cove Inn.  The egg puffs bake in ramekins and then stand up nicely by themselves on the plate. They can wait a few minutes in a turned-off oven, though they lose some of their height and are at their best fresh from the oven. We serve them with grilled sausage and toast. (The picture is from a recent photo shoot, done in preparation for our new website — currently under construction. More pictures of food, the inn, and the gardens, and more on the new website in later posts.)

 Herbed Egg Puffs
(serves 6)

8 eggs
5 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, grated
1/2 cup plain whole (or low fat) yogurt
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 C chopped fresh herbs (chives, parsley, etc.)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

Butter 6 6-ounce ceramic ramekins. Preheat oven to 375.

Mix eggs, mustard, and yogurt until well combined; add remaining ingredients and combine well. Divide egg mixture among the ramekins (which will be about 2/3 full), place on a baking sheet, and bake 20 to 30 minutes, until lightly browned and puffed.   If not serving immediately, leave in turned off oven. Cool slightly.  Run a knife or small spatula around rim and gently lift onto plate.  Serve immediately.

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